Arezzo: where beauty needs no fame to enchant

Arezzo is a hidden gem nestled among four major regions of Tuscany (Casentino, Valdarno, Valdichiana, and Valtiberina). The town has a long history, dating back to the Etruscan civilization, of which many artifacts have been discovered.

It is home to the oldest university in Tuscany and in Europe. Compared to Florence or Siena, it has a more austere yet extremely noble character. It is the birthplace of Giorgio Vasari and Francesco Petrarca, and the setting for Roberto Benigni’s unforgettable film “Life Is Beautiful.”

How to get to Arezzo from Florence

Arezzo is one of the easiest cities to reach from Florence, thanks to its strategic location on the main railway line and the Autostrada del Sole.

Mean on transport	Travel time	Details
Train	1h – 1h 20 min	The most convenient option. Numerous Regional and Regional Express trains connect Florence S.M. Novella (or Campo di Marte) to Arezzo. The Regional Express trains are very punctual and run frequently.
Car	About 1 hour	Take the A1 highway (Autostrada del Sole) toward Rome. Take the “Arezzo” exit. The city center is a restricted traffic zone (ZTL), but there are plenty of parking lots (e.g., Parcheggio Eden or Parcheggio Pietri; the latter is connected by escalators that lead directly up to the Duomo).
Bus	1h 15 min	Several companies (such as FlixBus) offer connections between Villa Costanza (the Florence tram terminal) and Arezzo. These services run less frequently than the train, but can help you save money if booked in advance.

A bit of history of a magnificent city:

Human beings have inhabited this area since the Paleolithic era. One of the first civilizations to settle here was the Etruscan (9th century – 1st century BC). It is believed that the city’s name comes from the Etruscan goddess Artume (goddess of the night, death, and the moon, very similar to the later goddess Artemis).

The Chimera of Arezzo is the most enigmatic and proud symbol of the city’s Etruscan roots. It is a bronze masterpiece from the 4th century BC depicting a mythological three-headed monster: a roaring lion, a goat emerging from its back, and a serpent in place of a tail. Discovered in 1553 near Porta San Lorentino during the construction of the Medicean fortifications, the sculpture immediately enchanted Cosimo I de’ Medici with its incredible expressive power and refined technical skill. Although the original is now kept at the National Archaeological Museum in Florence, Arezzo celebrates its myth with two bronze copies guarding the city entrance and a third placed near the station, reminding every visitor that long before the Renaissance, these lands were already the pinnacle of a sophisticated and mysterious civilization.

Naturally, the ancient Romans also established a settlement here, and battles against northern peoples,especially the Gauls, were not uncommon as they fought to maintain the territory.

Over the centuries, wars periodically raged in the Arezzo area between vastly different enemies. In the Middle Ages, it was the turn of the great rivalry between Arezzo and Florence. The issue was primarily political: Florence was the stronghold of the Guelphs (who supported the Pope), while Arezzo was the proud capital of the Ghibellines (who supported the Emperor).

Throughout history, clashes were inevitable. One of the most significant was certainly the Battle of Campaldino (1289), the decisive conflict where the Florentines dealt a heavy defeat to the Aretines. A curious fact? Fighting among the ranks of the Florentine knights was a young man named Dante Alighieri.

Although Arezzo was later subjugated by Florence, the Aretines take great pride in the fact that the most important architect and art historian of the Medici, Giorgio Vasari, was a “true-blue” Aretine.

What to see in Arezzo: itinerary and interesting facts

The Basilica of St. Francis:

This is a simple church on the outside. In fact, it resembles the Church of San Lorenzo in Florence. Don’t let the “cover” fool you: it hides a priceless treasure.

Here, you will find the fresco cycle of the “Legend of the True Cross” by Piero della Francesca, one of the absolute masterpieces of the global Renaissance. These are individual stories, depicted as scenes in a non-linear order, ranging from the Genesis of the Old Testament to approximately 600 AC. All the stories feature the Cross as the protagonist and can be divided into roughly three main parts.

From Adam to the Birth of Jesus
The story begins with Adam, the first man. Now old and reaching the end of his life, he dies at the feet of his desperate children. One of them buries him with a seed from the Tree of Knowledge in his mouth, given to him by the Archangel Michael. The tree grows and remains intact until the time of King Solomon, who has it cut down to build a bridge in his kingdom.
In a subsequent scene, the Queen of Sheba, during her journey to meet Solomon, senses that the wood used for the bridge is sacred. According to her vision, it will lead to the downfall of the Jewish people. When she shares this vision with Solomon, he decides to bury the wood so it can never be found again.
Here, the only scene not directly related to the wood of the Cross is introduced: the Archangel Michael descends from heaven a second time to announce to Mary that she will give birth to the Son of God.

Constantine and his conversion
Next is the story of Constantine. Legend has it that an angel appeared to him in a dream the night before the great Battle of the Milvian Bridge against the usurper Maxentius. The angel told him, *“Under this sign, you shall conquer,“* and thus Constantine chose to fight under the sign of the Cross, which guaranteed his victory.
Following this miraculous event, Constantine’s mother, Helena, decided to find the True Cross. She tracked down a man who knew its location and had him thrown into a well until he was ready to talk. The man eventually relented and revealed the burial site. Three crosses were recovered; to identify the miraculous one, Helena had them placed over the body of a deceased youth, who miraculously returned to life when touched by the one True Cross, which was then taken to Jerusalem.

The reconquest by Heraclius
A new despot, the Persian King Chosroes II, conquers Jerusalem and steals the relic of the True Cross. He demands to be worshipped as a god, keeping the sacred relic by his side. The Christians go to war and defeat Chosroes under the command of the Byzantine Emperor Heraclius during the Battle of Nineveh. The Cross is then returned to Jerusalem by Heraclius in a pilgrimage made barefoot, carrying the Cross on his shoulders just as Jesus did. The faithful of Jerusalem welcome his arrival and kneel before the sacred relic.

Curiosities and Hidden Meanings
Perspective and geometry: Piero della Francesca was obsessed with perspective; in the scenes featuring King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, he applied the rule of the Golden Ratio to achieve perfect proportions. In these frescoes, you will also find one of the first “night scenes” in art history (The Dream of Constantine).
Alchemy: There is a hidden meaning behind the symbolism of the entire work: Alchemy. The study of this subject and the search for the legendary “Philosopher’s Stone” were very popular among the wealthy classes. In fact, the recurring colors of black (nigredo), white (albedo), and red (rubedo) refer to the necessary phases for the creation of the stone.

Detail of the “Stories of the true cross”

Piazza Grande (or Vasari Square):

It is one of the most unique squares in Italy due to its trapezoidal shape and its steep slope (which originally served to drain rainwater). It already existed in the Middle Ages, serving first as a marketplace and later as a square for the public shaming of debtors. In 1384, the Florentines conquered the city, halting its political power and expansion.

Here is also the Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici, which suffered from a lack of independence throughout its entire construction. The building was started in 1375 and, amidst various interruptions in the work, it was finally completed with the addition of the astronomical clock in 1552. The result is a heterogeneous building that showcases three distinct architectural styles (Gothic, Renaissance, and 16th-century).

Until 1560, the square looked very different. It housed the Palazzo del Popolo, the Palazzo del Comune, and other buildings to the north that were demolished by order of Cosimo I de’ Medici. He commissioned Vasari to redesign the space so it could serve as a political center for gatherings and other public events.

Even today, you can find the Logge del Vasari here. Giorgio Vasari designed them in 1573 toward the end of his life, and they remain a sanctuary for those seeking shelter from the rain and a marvel for those who appreciate precise geometry.

Curiosities: This is precisely where the Giostra del Saracino is held (in June and September), which we will discuss in detail later. Additionally, this square served as the primary set for many scenes in the movie “Life is Beautiful.”

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve:

Located along Corso Italia, it is famous for its “loggia-style” façade. Its architectural style blends Romanesque and Gothic elements, and it was likely built on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to the god Mercury (patron of commerce, wealth, travelers, and communications).

Construction began so long ago that it dates back to the 5th century AD, when the Christian religion was still in its infancy. It stands where it is said the last miracle of Saint Donatus took place.
The parish church is first mentioned in official documents shortly after the year 1000 and would continue to undergo changes for the next two hundred years.
The crypt of the church houses the reliquary bust of Saint Donatus, Bishop of Arezzo and patron saint of the city, which was discovered in the mid-1800s.

Fun fact: It is called the “Church of the Hundred Holes” because of the numerous single-lancet windows that adorn the imposing bell tower.

Tarlati Polyptych by Pietro Lorenzetti 1320 and 1324

The Cathedral (Cathedral of San Donato):

Located at the top of the hill, it dominates the city. The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Donatus, the Duomo of Arezzo, is the spiritual symbol of the city and stands imposing at the summit of San Pietro hill. Unlike many other Tuscan cathedrals that impress with polychrome facades and elaborate marbles, the Duomo of Arezzo presents itself with an austere and solemn bulk, almost like a fortress of faith overlooking the surrounding town.

Construction began in 1278, but the works dragged on for centuries, undergoing numerous interruptions due to the city’s acquisition by the Lordship of Florence. For centuries, the Duomo remained without a real facade, showing only bare brick. The one we admire today, in Neo-Gothic style, was only built at the beginning of the 20th century (between 1901 and 1914), attempting to respect the medieval style of the rest of the building.

The current bell tower is the third in the Duomo’s history. The previous ones had to be demolished or collapsed due to the presence of underground aquifers that made the ground unstable. The current bell tower, with its characteristic spire, has become one of the city’s most iconic profiles.

While the exterior is austere, the interior is an explosion of art and spirituality:

The Stained Glass Windows by Guillaume de Marcillat: These are considered among the most beautiful in the world. Created in the early 16th century, these windows are true “paintings of light” that narrate biblical stories with an incredible chromatic range. The light filtering through these windows at sunset creates a magical atmosphere in the aisles.
Piero della Francesca’s “Magdalene”: Next to the sacristy door is a small but powerful fresco. Piero’s Mary Magdalene is a monumental figure, solid as a statue, wrapped in a bright red cloak with an absorbed gaze. It is a perfect example of his mastery of light and geometry, which is especially evident in the vessel she holds in her hand.
The Ark of Saint Donatus: Shining at the center of the apse is the Ark of Saint Donatus, a monumental 14th-century marble sarcophagus, finely sculpted, which houses the relics of the city’s patron saint, martyred right here in Arezzo.

Curiosities:

In front of the Duomo stands the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall), on whose walls are plaques commemorating the names of all the city’s podestà (chief magistrates).
A side chapel houses the image of the Madonna del Conforto, a small glazed terracotta portrait. Legend has it that in 1796, while the city was shaken by continuous earthquakes, the image miraculously lit up and the tremors ceased. Since then, she has been the protector of the people of Arezzo, and the September Giostra del Saracino is dedicated to her.
The Duomo houses one of the most important pipe organs in the region, often the centerpiece of concerts that take advantage of the exceptional acoustics of the three high aisles.

Saint Mary Magdalene Piero della Francesca

Vasari's home:

The House of Giorgio Vasari, located in via XX Settembre, was purchased by the artist in 1541 and personally decorated over several years. It represents one of the world’s rarest examples of a 16th-century artist’s residence that has reached us practically intact.

Entering this house means entering the mind of Vasari. Not being a commission for a prince or a Pope, the artist was free here to express his own vision of the world, art, and glory.

The Frescoes: Vasari painted almost every inch of the walls and ceilings of the main rooms. Each room has a philosophical or allegorical theme: the Hall of the Triumph of Virtue, the Hall of Fame, and the Chamber of Abraham.
Self-Glorification: Vasari filled the house with portraits of illustrious artists (his “ideal masters”) and references to his own career, celebrating art not just as a craft, but as a noble elevation of human ingenuity.

The palace spans three floors, but the heart of the visit is the noble floor (piano nobile).

The Hanging Garden: At the back of the house lies a delightful Italian-style garden, an oasis of peace where the artist loved to stroll. It is a rare example of a 16th-century urban garden that still preserves its original layout.
The Vasari Archive: For centuries, the house kept the genius’s private papers, including handwritten letters by Michelangelo Buonarroti and Cosimo I de’ Medici—invaluable documents that tell the behind-the-scenes stories of the Renaissance (today safely stored but inextricably linked to the building’s history).

Curiosities:

The Marriage: Vasari bought and furnished this house in anticipation of his marriage to Niccolosa Bacci. It is said he wanted to impress the bride’s family and the entire city with a residence that rivaled the splendor of those belonging to blood nobility.
The Fireplace of the Hall of Triumph: This is one of the highlights of the house. Above it, Vasari painted an allegory of Fortune: depending on how you look at it, the figure appears either favorable or adverse—a warning about the fickleness of fate that the artist felt very deeply.
Excellence in Restoration: Recently, the museum underwent significant lighting and restoration work, allowing visitors to enjoy the original colors of the frescoes, which seem to shine with their own light.

The Saracino Joust:

The Giostra del Saracino (Joust of the Saracen) is not just a simple historical reenactment: for the people of Arezzo, it is a way of life, a moment when time stands still and the city forcefully returns to the 14th century. If Piazza Grande is the stage, the Giostra is the ultimate masterpiece performed by the four historical quarters competing for victory.

Twice a year, on the penultimate Saturday of June and the first Sunday of September, the giostratori (jousters)—divided by quarters: Porta Crucifera, Porta del Foro, Porta Sant’Andrea, and Porta Santo Spirito—charge at a gallop along the “lizza” (the dirt track) to strike the shield of the Buratto with their lance. This is a rotating effigy representing the fearsome “King of the Indies,” a name that does not refer to a real historical figure but is a symbolic character embodying the “infidel,” the ultimate foreign enemy of medieval Christendom.

The challenge requires surgical precision, as the rider must hit the highest score on the board and escape instantly to avoid being struck by the mazzafrusto (mace).

The Buratto holds a shield in its left hand divided into sectors with scores from 1 to 5. The rider aims for the center (the 5) to obtain maximum points.
If the rider’s lance breaks upon impact with the Buratto (a sign of extreme power), the score obtained is doubled.
If the rider hits the board but is too slow to escape, the Buratto rotates on its axis and strikes him in the back, causing a point penalty (or total loss if he is unhorsed).

The quarter that achieves the highest score wins the Lancia d’Oro (Golden Lance), a true masterpiece of carved and gilded wood, dedicated each time to a different historical figure or event. Amidst the rolling of drums and the triumph of participants in 14th-century costumes, the square explodes in a roar of joy or mockery, culminating in the presentation of the Golden Lance to the winning quarter.

After the victory, the winning quarter heads to the Cathedral to sing the Te Deum in thanksgiving. The celebrations last for entire weeks, with open-air dinners in the squares involving thousands of people.

💡TIP: If you visit Arezzo during the days of the Giostra, try to attend the “Prove dei Giostratori” (Jousters’ Practices) held in Piazza Grande during the preceding week. Entry is often free or very inexpensive, there are fewer crowds than on race day, and you can hear the thundering hooves on the dirt and the sharp crack of the lance hitting the Buratto up close.

🍴What to eat whilst in Arezzo

Here is the English translation for the dining and food section, formatted with HTML tags:

To conclude your day in Arezzo on a high note, we suggest two unmissable gastronomic stops, both characterized by refined decor and impeccable service.

For lunch, the ideal choice is Ristorante La Pieve (Via di Seteria, 7), located just a step away from Piazza Grande. This place literally won us over: you cannot miss the beef fillet with truffle and porcini mushrooms—a dish with a remarkable and enveloping flavor—accompanied by classic fagioli all’uccelletto (cannellini beans in tomato and sage) and a glass of Buccia Nera, a typical young Aretine wine that pairs divinely with the meat.

After continuing your tour through the city center streets, and before heading back to Florence, the perfect stop is Rabbit Rabbit (Corso Italia, 122). Here, a sophisticated atmosphere and modern design set the stage for an excellent selection of tapas and quality wines—the ideal spot for a rejuvenating aperitivo to end your tour along the city’s main thoroughfare in perfect style.

Other dishes you shouldn’t miss:

Crostini Neri: Similar to the Florentine ones but with a slightly different recipe, often featuring spleen and chicken livers, served on unsalted Tuscan bread.
Pappardelle all’Ocio: The “ocio” is the male goose. Goose ragù is the traditional condiment of an Aretine Sunday lunch.
Chianina Steak: You are very close to the Val di Chiana, the homeland of Italy’s most prized cattle breed.
Gattò Aretino: A dessert in the shape of a sponge cake roll soaked in Alchermes liqueur and filled with custard and chocolate. A true sugar explosion!

Beef tenderloin with porcini mushrooms and truffle shavings

What are you waiting for? Come explore Arezzo!
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