A day in Pisa from Florence

Pisa, the ancient Maritime Republic, is a city that offers much more than its iconic tower. It is a place where thousands of years of history blend with university life, all framed by the waters of the Arno and echoes of a glorious rivalry with its more imposing neighbor: Florence.

How to get to Pisa from Florence

Pisa is well connected to Florence, making it a perfect destination for a day trip or weekend getaway.

Average travel time		Details
Train	50 min – 1h 30 min	The most convenient way. Regional trains (slower and cheaper) or Regional Fast trains connect Florence Santa Maria Novella and Pisa Central stations directly. Services are frequent.
Car	Circa 1 ora	Take the A11 motorway (Florence-Mare). Please note: the center of Pisa is a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). It is advisable to park outside the historic center and continue on foot or by public transport.
Bus	1 ora – 1 ora 30 min	Several companies offer direct services between the bus stations in Florence and Pisa. This is often an inexpensive option and a good alternative to the train, although less frequent.

The historic rivalry between Florence and Pisa:

The tension between Florence and Pisa has been a constant feature of Tuscan history, especially since the 13th century. While Pisa flourished as one of the four powerful Maritime Republics (along with Venice, Genoa, and Amalfi), controlling the western Mediterranean, Florence emerged as a land, banking, and commercial power. Conflict was inevitable:

The end of power for Pisa (13th-14th centuries): the final blow to Pisa’s maritime power was dealt by Genoa in the Battle of Meloria (1284). Florence, seeing its rival weakened, did not let the opportunity slip by.
The Florentine conquest: after several attempts, Florence finally conquered Pisa in 1406. This event marked the end of Pisa’s independence and its integration, often forced and rebellious, into Florentine rule, which later became grand ducal.
Echoes in folklore: the rivalry is also rooted in popular language, as demonstrated by the well-known Florentine saying: “Better to find someone dead at home than a person from Pisa at the door” (the front door), to which the Pisans respond with a sarcastic: “May God help you!”

Miracle Square

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this square is the heart of Pisan Romanesque architecture. The monumental complex (cathedral, baptistery, bell tower, and “camposanto” -cemetery) was built starting in the 11th century, reflecting the power and wealth achieved by the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

The layout of the monuments, as in many other Italian squares, is not random. The various buildings and their functions represented the different stages of human existence:

The Baptistery of San Giovanni (birth): where the faithful enter the Christian community.
It is also the largest baptistery in Italy. Its construction took centuries, evolving from Romanesque (the lower part with round arches) to Gothic (the pointed upper part, created by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano).
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (life): a place of celebration and prayer.
Inside the cathedral there is a splendid bronze lamp. It is said that Galileo Galilei, observing its oscillation during a mass, got an hint on the theory of the iso-chronism of the pendulum. The truth is that the current lamp dates back to after Galileo’s time, but the legend remains fascinating.
On the north side (towards the Camposanto), on a piece of Roman marble, there are numerous small black holes. Legend says that these are the marks left by the devil’s nails as he tried to climb up to prevent the construction of the cathedral. It is said that no matter how many times you try to count them, the number changes each time.
The Bell Tower (knowledge): The link between earth and the divine.
Approximately 56 meters high, the Tower is actually the bell tower of the Cathedral. The tower began to lean from the early years of its construction (1173) due to the sandy and clayey soil underneath. Galileo Galilei conducted experiments here on falling bodies. The Tower does not fall because its center of gravity still falls within the base. In the 1990s, it underwent complex consolidation work that reduced its tilt by about 40 centimeters, making it safe for the next three centuries.
Each of the seven bells has a different name and musical note. The most famous is “Justice,” which rang to announce the executions of traitors (such as the famous Count Ugolino).
The Camposanto (death): The place of eternal rest.
It is said to have been built around a load of sacred earth from Mount Calvary (Golgotha), brought to Pisa by ships from the Fourth Crusade in 1203, so that the bodies of illustrious citizens could decompose in holy ground.
Inside is one of the most impressive medieval frescoes in the world, the Triumph of Death (attributed to Buonamico Buffalmacco). It is a powerful work depicting scenes of courtly life abruptly interrupted by the arrival of death.

Other interesting facts and tips:

The square has not always been called this. Credit goes to the writer and poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, who in his novel “Forse che sì forse che no” (1910) described the monuments in the square as “miracles” due to their beauty and the whiteness of the marble contrasting with the intense green of the lawn. Since then, it has become known throughout the world as Piazza dei Miracoli.
For a more powerful visual impact, enter the square from Porta Nuova (near Piazza Manin). As you exit the arch, you will see the monuments lined up in a breathtaking perspective, with the green of the lawn seeming endless.
Piazza dei Miracoli after sunset is magical. The number of tourists decreases dramatically and the illuminated monuments take on an almost ghostly and solemn appearance.

The baptistry of Pisa on Piazza dei Miracoli

Palazzo della Carovana (Piazza dei Cavalieri)

If Piazza dei Miracoli represents the religious and tourist soul of Pisa, Piazza dei Cavalieri represents its political and intellectual soul and, in some ways, its darker and more mysterious side.

In medieval times, this place was known as Piazza delle Sette Vie (Seven Roads Square), because the seven main roads of the city converged here. It was the center of political life in the free Republic of Pisa, where the Palazzo degli Anziani (Palace of the Elders) stood.

Everything changed in 1562, when the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo I de’ Medici, decided to redesign the square. He commissioned his trusted architect, Giorgio Vasari, to transform it into the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of St. Stephen, a monastic-military order created to defend the Tuscan and Christian coasts from Saracen pirate raids.

Interesting facts:
– The name “della Carovana” derives from the three-year training period (“carovana”) that the novices of the Order had to undergo. Today, it is the prestigious headquarters of the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa.
– The students of the Scuola Normale are famous for their absolute dedication to their studies. A local legend says that if a student of the Normale crosses the center of the square diagonally, they will never graduate (a superstition similar to the one that forbids climbing the Leaning Tower before graduation).

Church of San Frediano in Pisa

The Church of San Frediano is one of the most beloved places in Pisa, not only for its architectural beauty, but also because it is the religious heart of the University of Pisa. Located in the square of the same name, a few steps from the Palazzo della Sapienza (the historic seat of the Faculty of Law), it is a pure example of Pisan Romanesque architecture, less striking than the Duomo but extremely evocative.

The first records of the church date back to 1061. Initially, it was a monastery of Benedictine monks and later of Camaldolese monks. In 1561, with the reform desired by the Medici, the church came under the control of the Order of the Knights of St. Stephen (the same ones in Piazza dei Cavalieri), who renovated it internally.

Since the 19th century, the church has become the center of spiritual life for university students, a role it still plays today, hosting events, concerts, and moments of reflection for students.

🎨 What to see inside the church:

The interior is a fascinating mix of medieval austerity and late Renaissance/Baroque opulence:

The painted cross (12th century): this is the most important work of art in the church. It is a crucifix on wood entitled “Christus Triumphans” (Christ triumphant over death, with his eyes open). It is surrounded by small scenes from the Passion of extraordinary delicacy. It represents a crucial transition in Tuscan painting before the arrival of Cimabue and Giotto.
The ancient columns: inside, the naves are divided by columns salvaged from ancient Roman buildings, all different in terms of material and capitals.
The frescoes by Domenico Passignano: The dome and choir preserve late 16th-century decorations that tell stories related to San Frediano, a saint of Irish origin who was bishop of Lucca.

Church of Santa Maria della Spina (Saint Mary of the thorn)

Founded in 1230, the church initially had a much simpler appearance. Its original name was Santa Maria del Pontenovo. This was because it stood right next to a bridge (the Ponte Nuovo) that connected Via Sant’Antonio with Via Santa Maria. Unfortunately, that bridge collapsed definitively in the 15th century and was never rebuilt, leaving the small church as the only witness to that ancient passage.

The turning point in the church’s history came in 1333. In that year, a member of the noble Gualandi family brought a priceless relic to Pisa: a thorn said to belong to the crown of Christ worn during the Passion. Pisa decided to keep this treasure in the small church on the river, which was enlarged and transformed into a Gothic masterpiece for the occasion. From that moment on, the name officially changed to “della Spina.” Today, the relic is no longer here (it was moved to the Church of Santa Chiara to ensure its preservation), but the name continues to evoke that glorious past.

Interesting fact: Due to its location close to the river, it was subject to subsidence. To save it, in 1871 it was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt higher up (about one meter) and slightly further back from the riverbank.

The Blue Palace on the Lungarno

Located on Lungarno Gambacorti, Palazzo Giuli Rosselmini Gualandi, universally known as Palazzo Blu, has become the symbol of Pisa’s cultural renaissance in recent decades. Its distinctive color makes it a visual exception in the Lungarni landscape, dominated by shades of yellow, orange, and red.

The question everyone asks is: why is it blue? During restoration work in 2007, traces of pastel blue dating back to the 18th century emerged from under the most recent layers of plaster. At that time, Pisa was a key stop on the Grand Tour and was frequented by a large Russian and Northern European community. The choice of blue (very rare in Italy for exterior facades) was a tribute to the taste of the Russian visitors of the time, who brought with them the style of the palaces of St. Petersburg. The Pisa Foundation, which owns the building, decided to restore the original color, giving the city a unique and “international” look.

Interesting fact: During the restoration work, Roman and medieval archaeological remains were discovered on the ground floor, which are now visible.

Palazzo Agostini (also known as Palazzo dell'Ussero or Red Palace)

While many noble palaces in Pisa relied on marble to show off their wealth, Palazzo Agostini stands out for the warmth and craftsmanship of its brickwork. Its façade is a continuous embroidery of terracotta decorations that change shade depending on the sunlight, ranging from deep red to vibrant orange.

The palace, as we see it today, dates back to the 14th century, but its structure tells an even older story. It was created by combining several pre-existing medieval tower houses. If you look closely, you will notice that the facade is not perfectly symmetrical: this is a visible sign of the sum of different buildings, skillfully harmonized by terracotta decorations depicting floral motifs, human figures, and noble coats of arms.

Interesting fact: The ground floor houses the historic Caffè dell’Ussero (1775), one of the oldest cafés in Italy, which for centuries was a meeting place for intellectuals, patriots, and Freemasons, becoming a focal point for cultural and political debate during the Risorgimento in Pisa.

Palazzo Agostini holds an extraordinary record: in 1899, the Cinema Lumière, one of the oldest movie theaters in Italy (and the world) still in operation, opened in the rooms at the rear of the building. Watching a movie here is not just entertainment, it is a journey through the history of cinema.

Praetorian Palace

The Palazzo Pretorio, located on Lungarno Gambacorti right next to the famous Ponte di Mezzo, is the “guardian” of the left bank of the Arno. If Palazzo Agostini is the symbol of private elegance, Palazzo Pretorio has been the emblem of civil authority and public service in Pisa for centuries.

The palace’s roots date back to the Middle Ages. As early as the 14th century, it was the seat of the Podestà and the Governor, the highest representatives of city power.
Over the centuries, the palace has undergone countless transformations. During the Grand Ducal era (under the Medici and Lorraine families), it was enlarged and embellished to reflect the importance of the institutions it housed, including the Court and the prisons (located in the tower).

The Palazzo Pretorio is one of the symbols of Pisa’s resilience. During World War II, in the tragic bombing of August 31, 1943, the palace was almost completely destroyed. After the war, there was much debate about whether to rebuild it in a modern style or “as it was and where it was.” In the end, a middle ground guided by architect Piero Sanpaolesi prevailed.
The palace was rebuilt in the 1950s using some of the original materials recovered from the rubble. It was a monumental reconstruction project that restored Pisa’s historic profile on the river.

Interesting fact: The current tower is the result of post-war reconstruction and was built slightly taller than the original 19th-century tower to give the entire complex a sense of momentum and make it more visible from the opposite banks of the Arno.

Today, the building no longer houses courts or prisons, but the Municipal Library (SMS – San Michele degli Scalzi). It is a vibrant place, very popular with students and researchers, where medieval history meets the modernity of digital services.

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