The taste of Florence and Tuscany

We think it is impossible to separate the idea of travel from the idea of the culinary experience of the place. No matter where you go on holiday, we know that one of the first thoughts that will cross your mind will be “I wonder what I’ll be eating, I hope it’s something tasty!”
That’s why we had to tell you a bit more about the amazing taste of Florentine and Tuscan cuisine.

POVERTY IN THE CULINARY TRADITION:

Times have changed a lot. Nowadays not many people would imagine that Florence, or Tuscany in general, boasts a great culinary tradition that has its roots in the poor people of the past.

Indeed, it is the peasants and workers who, through the hard work they were subjected to, gave birth to the dishes that we still find in local “Trattorias” or “Osterias” today.

Lacking the modern stove, much cooking was done over the open fire of a fireplace, which kept the house alive throughout the day, and which served both to warm up and to cook the food in the traditional “paiolo” or on a grill over the ember.

THE ROLE OF BREAD:

Even today, Florentine and Tuscan grandparents cannot tolerate throwing bread away. If they really have to, they literally give it a kiss before throwing it in the trash.

The great love for bread, which has always fed the local population, is still deeply-rooted in our bones.

In order not to throw away stale bread for example, bread soups of various kinds were invented. Also crumbs were reused to make meatballs. This gave ideas to some of the great chefs to recreate their own versions of “ribollita” or “pappa al pomodoro”.

Those who could not afford meat had to rely on the much cheaper legumes to obtain protein. From this necessity the “Crostino” (slice of bread) with beans and black cabbage was born.

THE ROLE OF MEAT, COLD CUTS AND CHEESE:

An old saying says that “of the animal nothing is thrown away.” In fact, in the past if any animal was sacrificed it was so valuable, and hunger was so great, that it was essential to cook or use all its parts.

This necessity gave rise to many dishes based on offal, which has always been considered the least valuable parts of the animal,as well as less expensive, but equally nutritious. Moreover, since the refrigerator was still mere science fiction, meat was preserved in salt, hence in fact the Italian word “salume” (salami in America) that comes from “sale” (salt). This is why here you will find amazing tasty hams and cold cuts that are just like poems.

In addition, the animals could also give milk, which could be turned into cheese for longer storage.

THE ROLE OF WINE AND OLIVE OIL:

Wine and olive oil represent a large part of the history of Italy in general. These two elements have always been present in the life of any Florentine and Tuscan person, both in the past and in the present.

A good part of the great noble families of Florence owe their wealth to the prestige of their wine, as well as their olive oil, which they produced on the land they owned and sold in Florence through curious “porticine” (small doors) that were created for the buying and selling of these products directly from producer to consumer.

They are still clearly visible today, especially in the area of the Florentine Oltrarno.

SWEETS – ONLY FOR GREAT OCCASIONS

In the past, pure sugar was a rarity and was often replaced by fruits with high sugar concentration, such as grapes and figs, or by honey.

Only the wealthier social classes could afford these treats more frequently. However, on rare occasions, even the common people could indulge in this luxury.

The sweets went with holidays and major life events, such as the “Schiacciata con l’uva” that heralded the grape harvest between September and October, or the “Schiacciata alla fiorentina” that accompanied Carnival in February. Not surprisingly, even today, “dessert” is a synonym for celebration.

So here are some of our tips for a lunch, or dinner, as a true Florentine:

Starters:

Crostino con fegatini di pollo

Also known as “black crostino”, it always has a base of toasted bread with a spread of chicken liver pate, anchovies, capers and olive oil on top.

Coccoli stracchino e prosciutto

This is fried pizza dough in the form of small balls that are to be eaten by stuffing them at the last moment with stracchino cheese and Tuscan prosciutto.

Fettunta

It is a slice of bread “greased” in olive oil. Before adding the oil the slice of bread is toasted and a clove of garlic is grated over it. After the oil all is garnished with salt.

First courses:

Ribollita

This is a poor dish that involves the reuse of stale bread that is cooked with vegetables and legumes such as black cabbage, savoy cabbage, beans and is seasoned with lots of olive oil, salt and pepper.

Credit: photo by Joy

Pappa al pomodoro

This is a poor dish that involves the reuse of stale bread that is cooked with lots of tomatoes, basil, vegetable broth, garlic and is seasoned with lots of olive oil, salt and pepper.

Credit: photo by Visit Tuscany

Crespelle alla fiorentina

They are very similar to the French “crêpes” that are filled with ricotta and spinach. They are then garnished with béchamel sauce and grated cheese.

Credit: Photo by Hakim Santoso

Main courses:

Bistecca alla fiorentina

The queen of all meats is the “Florentine steak”. This is an expensive, but very succulent dish, that involves cooking a high cut of beef tenderloin and sirloin that has to be cooked rare or “al sangue”.

Peposo

Legend says that those who built the dome of the Duomo ate a good portion of it and were able to work all day without ever getting off. It is a beef stew boiled with lots of black pepper, from which it gets its name, often served with potatoes.

Trippa alla fiorentina

The “trippa” (beef stomach) is cleaned very well and then cooked. It is then cut into strips sautéed with onions and seasoned with chopped carrots, parsley, celery, tomatoes and a clove of garlic. It is cooked over very low heat until the water of the “trippa” and tomatoes is evaporated.
It is served hot, usually with grated cheese, and olive oil.

Credit: photo by Kirk K.

Desserts:

Schiacciata con l'uva

It is an “atypical cake”. In fact it is made with the same dough that we it’s used for bread (without salt), but a lot of sweet grape and sugar are added both inside and on top of the bread so that it is served as a dessert.

Schiacciata alla fiorentina

“Florentine-style schiacciata” is a typical dessert found only during Carnival here in Florence. It is a cake similar to sponge cake, but flavored with orange and sometimes filled with various kinds of creams according to taste.

Zuccotto

This is a semi-sphere of sponge cake, with flavors of your choice, that is filled with ice cream. The classic version is made with sponge cake with a little rhum, or alchermes, filled with classic ice cream. However, there are many versions.

Credit: photo by Stefano Merli

Come to Florence to indulge in local deliciousness!

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